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Shoe prints on RAD semitransparent stain

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(@pamclaps)
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Just used RAD semitransparent stain today and now have shoe marks. I applied a first coat, and one half hour later applied a second coat (and had to walk on the deck.). After the second coat, I wiped up any remaining stain on top with a clean towel.  The shoe prints did not wipe out.  There is no dirt or grit, per se,  just the imprint of my shoes.  I used some water and dish detergent to wipe up some stain that ended up on white molding.  No luck though trying it on the deck floor itself on one of the shoe prints. I cleaned and brightened yesterday using RAD prep kit.  It is a one year old tongue and groove Douglas fir porch floor.  It had its first coat of RAD semitransparent stain last July.  I am super disappointed in the outcome.  Should I have wiped the first coat of stain before applying the second coat?  The instructions don't comment on it.  Just state to reapply before 60 minutes.  If I have to strip and re-stain, do I have to wait and let this stain job cure, or can I just get it done?

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Scott Paul ~ Restoring Wood & Decks Since 1993
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Joined: 13 years ago
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How did you prep? Looks like you stepped in the first coat before it had any chance to set. It could be due to it being a covered porch as it can take longer when not exposed to UV. Also, I am not sure what you back-wiped. RAD does not need to be back wiped. 

To fix, you would have to remove and start over. You can do this now or later.


   
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(@pamclaps)
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@administrator

Used RAD cleaner and brightener.  The instructions suggest to re-coat within an hour. so, as previously stated, it took 1/2 hour to do first coat.  Then, started second coat.   I used a stain pad to apply.  Having read forum questions, my interpretation was the second coat had to be put on promptly. (damp on wet).  Wouldn't the lack of drying/curing time on a cloudy, mid-sixties degree day be in my favor?  The second coat did not absorb nearly as quickly and there was extra stain on the boards which was not absorbed and I wiped off.


   
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Scott Paul ~ Restoring Wood & Decks Since 1993
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Yes, it needs to be applied wet on wet. You can walk on the first coat but you have to take care to not leave footprints or step in your second coat. 

This post was modified 11 months ago by Scott Paul ~ Restoring Wood & Decks Since 1993

   
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(@pamclaps)
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SE MI with one year old tongue and groove Douglas fir porch floor.   First single coat of RAD semitransparent in July 2023, and second and third coats applied last week with patchy results. Attempted to strip using RAD stripper and brightener today.  60 degree day, partial sun, 34 percent humidity.  1 cup per gallon, sprayed on. Stripper was on for 15 minutes, scrubbed with deck brush, and garden hosed off.  As you can see, very little stain came off.  The photo shows a still damp floor.  I just read your reply to "douglasfir". Should I attempt to test a small area to determine dwell time and increase it beyond 15 minutes?  Is there a maximum time the stripper should be on? How many times can I attempt to strip and brighten?  I have no experience with a power washer,  and am a little reluctant to try because of other posts suggesting the possiblity of damage to the floor.  I did use the same process on a teak bench today and got the old Watco teak oil off.  Any suggestions would be appreciated.

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Scott Paul ~ Restoring Wood & Decks Since 1993
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Posted by: @pamclaps

SE MI with one year old tongue and groove Douglas fir porch floor.   First single coat of RAD semitransparent in July 2023, and second and third coats applied last week with patchy results. Attempted to strip using RAD stripper and brightener today.  60 degree day, partial sun, 34 percent humidity.  1 cup per gallon, sprayed on. Stripper was on for 15 minutes, scrubbed with deck brush, and garden hosed off.  As you can see, very little stain came off.  The photo shows a still damp floor.  I just read your reply to "douglasfir". Should I attempt to test a small area to determine dwell time and increase it beyond 15 minutes?  Is there a maximum time the stripper should be on? How many times can I attempt to strip and brighten?  I have no experience with a power washer,  and am a little reluctant to try because of other posts suggesting the possiblity of damage to the floor.  I did use the same process on a teak bench today and got the old Watco teak oil off.  Any suggestions would be appreciated.

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Newly applied stain is more challenging to remove. Use the RAD stripper with both the Booster and the Gel additives. Apply and let dwell for 30-45 minutes, and then heavy scrub or pressure wash to remove. Pressure washing will be more effective.

 


   
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(@pamclaps)
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SE Michigan, tongue and groove Douglas fir porch floor, restained.  Having used the RAD stripper with additives (both booster and gel). a scrub brush and power washer with 40 degree fan, followed by brightener, I see I still have retained stain.  Particularly around the edges, and in the center where there was obviously a particularly heavy application of stain.  Should I spot strip?  Should I whole strip again?  Should I sand with 60-80 grit the areas of retained stain?   Sand the whole thing? (I will have to spot sand some fuzzies.). All and all, the stripper with additives and longer dwell time and elbow grease got the vast majority of the stain up.  But, because it is not all up, I am afraid I will end up with patchy results again.

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Scott Paul ~ Restoring Wood & Decks Since 1993
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Joined: 13 years ago
Posts: 3326
 

Yes, spot strip as needed and then brighten all when done.


   
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