Is there any value in applying stain between the floorboards on a redwood deck? I did that with a pad on a pole that slides between the boards years ago, but though it wasn't a great deal of extra effort, that is probably a waste of time, right? ...particularly since I haven't scrubbed that zone with the prep this time.
No need.
Thanks. I'm the only one who is going to look in between the planks to see the different colors on their sides! Also...
I have R-A-D stripped/brightened my redwood deck (floor only) and am ready to stain. I had planned to use Armstrong-Clark cedar semi-transparent—because we weren’t fond of previous red stain color. I called Armstrong-Clark to clarify the difference if any beyond the amount of pigment in their alternative transparent and semi-solid versions. The A-C agent suggested Amber Hardwood/Softwood/Ipe would be an even better stain choice for me, because it has more pigment but isn’t as opaque, so more protection, yet grain showing like a semi-transparent. I assume it would also be one I could clean rather than strip if I change to another A-C tone in a couple years.
Suggested 5 gallons for my 950 sf.
Make sense?
Yes, but you will probably need more than 5-gallons if planning on 2 coats.
I was looking at other help questions and was reviewing Armstrong Clark Wood Stain Review section. I noticed a question from Ted 10 months ago who had sanded his deck and was asking for help on Armstrong Clark Wood Stain Products. He sent you a picture and you told him that there was still SW stain still on his deck. He asked if he should use RAD Stripper before staining to remove any remaking SW stain before using Armstrong Clark Stain. Your reply stated “Strippers will not remove a solid stain fully. It will remove some or possibly a lot but sanding will be needed to get it all off prior to using a semi-transparent like the AC stains.” I am trying to see if RAD Paint & Solid Stain Stripping Gel, not the RAD Stripper, will fully remove the Behr SW Stain on deck to go back to a Semi Transparent Stain like TWP or Armstrong Clark. I contacted RAD on their Forum Site and they felt their product would remove all the Behr SW stain. But were no comment regarding using a Semi Transparent afterwards? I’m worried about avoiding a blotchy face finish now. I plan to do some sanding after using the RAD but hopefully not much because the deck is 30 years, pretty dried out in places, lots of nails. Then use a good brighter before the staining. I have search your forum to see if anyone else has had success with these steps but couldn’t find any? Ted never commented back after that so wondering if this process worked for him? Can you comment on your experience about removing a SW Stain and preparing a deck for a Semi Transparent Stain? I’m hoping to get into a two year maintenance process with Semi Transparent Stain.
The RAD PaintStrip is new since that post was written. If you are patient and you use it correctly, it will remove a solid stain. You may have to sand a little for difficult to remove spots.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-remove-a-solid-color-deck-stain-or-paint/
Once removed, you can use a semi-transparent stain of any brand.
can you liquify TWP 100 if it has gelled in the can?
No, it has gone bad.
That is oxidation you did not fully remove. Redo Step 1 and make sure to use a pressure washer as well.
Hello, We have another 17 yr old pressure treated deck to maintain, it is under a porch canopy so not full sun/faces North, and has 4-yr old semi transparent stain Behr. To minimize more work (after just sanding bare an entire back deck) I thought I'd just restain with same product-- a water based stain. The Behr stain/build up proves almost impossible to remove on other projects, but have not used RAD stripper yet (have used Cabot stripper on other back deck). So if staying with same type -- water based semi transparent, don't I just have to clean and brighten?
What would you suggest I do? Thank you for your help-
Kimberly
What you have on the wood is more solid/opaque than semi-transparent. Behr lies about their opacity. We would power sand it off and go with a true penetrating stain. Clean and brighten over the top with the same will result in compounding your issues with the Behr.
Massachusetts
Partial sun
Three 30 year old decks that had been previously stained with oil-based stain. On the first one I cleaned with Defy cleaner and the stained with semi transparent Defy Extreme. I did not strip and the outcome was not great. Now what? Should I stain with a solid over the semi transparent?
I have two other decks that have oil-based stain. Should I stain them with oil based?
You are not prepping correctly. Post pics of all three decks for prep advice.
Upstate NY
Deck - Full sun from start of the morning until 5 - 6PM
Temps projected to be in the 80 - 85 range for the foreseeable future, humidity varying but humidity around 80% most mornings and falling to ~50% mid afternoon when it's hottest
* We've spent the last two days following all of your advice prepping the deck. We used brightener yesterday and are waiting for the deck to dry, although it might rain tomorrow so will be a few days from now. My question is because the deck is in full sun; should we try to use the semi-transparent stain we bought (Flood) as early in the morning as possible before the deck is too hot but would still be in the sun and higher humidity. Or should we wait till 5 - 6pm when the sun sets in front of our house and the deck (behind the house) is in the shade. My worry with that is the deck boards would be too hot to stain after being in the sun all day.
* Also, with the Flood semi-transparent. They suggest 1-2 coats but don't specify beyond that. Do you think we should do just 1 coat or would you suggest 2 coats with the Flood semi-transparent. And if we do 2 coats, since there are no directions on that on the can, from your other reviews, wait about 4 hours before applying 2nd coat?
Thank you for any help.