[Sticky] Deck Staining Help

@administrator Because we've (MO) had so much rain, I am concerned about the green mold stains. As I said before, I cleaned and brightened 2 weeks ago. After this, the deck looked great and when dry, none of the green could be seen however, when wet it is still apparent. These pics were taken yesterday and this morning. As I said, the deck was still green before the delay ( 2 weeks) even after my prep. My area is approx. 13ft L and 7ft W and is mainly shaded until late afternoon. Should I work on these spots more? 

The green is internal and will most likely not come out.

@administrator Will it still be visible after staining and especially after it is rained upon? I'm using a semi-transparent. 

Hard to say but yes, it might show through some.

We need help on what to do with our deck. Seems to be a 5 to 7 year repeated process. We are retired and hope to move in about 5 years to a smaller home. So this is the last time I want to refinish the deck but want to enjoy it while we are still here.

Answers to your questions:

1. In which state is your deck located? Wisconsin Milwaukee Area
2. How much sun/shade does your deck get? Part shade in the morning, full sun in the afternoon.
3. What type of wood is your deck made    of? Treated Cedar

   4. Do you have mold or mildew issues?

Some, not much

1. What type of stain did you use last time? Behr Waterproofing Wood Stain Deep Base 213.

Here are pictures of our deck. One guy quoted using 2 coats of Deck Correct by Cabot over the existing Behr after a light power wash and scraping. He doesn’t want to strip the deck. This looks like a permanent product hard to remove down the road?

The second guy will Power Wash / Days 2 and or 3 Drying/ Day 4 Stain/ Day.

The decking will be washed and scrubbed with a chemical solution to "revive" the wood. The surfaces will then be power washed to provide a clean surface. This is a cleaning process NOT a stripping of the old finish.

The decking surface will be sanded prior to the staining application. This step is taken to promote adhesion and provide a more uniform surface for the finish coat. Then apply 1 full coat of solid of Sherwin Williams Duck Back Solid Color Deck Stain on all surfaces.

So can you help us sort out the best solution? I’m getting one more quote and want to be prepared to suggest the right solution and products you would suggest.

One final question, I’m thinking of covering the deck with a tarp in the winter. There is plenty of air moving under the deck to keep it dry but would keep the snow and ice off of the surface during the winter months. What do you think of this idea?

Thanks

R4ntoy

@r4ntoy You have a solid stain so the easiest is to stick with a solid stain. See this for prep tips: 

https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/

SW stains are poor. Look for a better brand:

https://www.deckstainhelp.com/category/deck-product-reviews/solid-color-deck-stain-reviews/

No point covering the deck.

Hello Scott,

Thanks for putting together this great website! Here are my stats:

1. I am in New Jersey

2. The deck is in full sun

3. The wood is Alaskan yellow cedar, a.k.a. cypress

4. No mold or mildew

5. The results were very blotchy. I used TWP Total Wood Preservative oil.

This is a new deck that I stained after one year from the installation. I applied Restore-a-Deck cleaner, pressure washed the deck, applied the Restore-a-Deck brightener, wait for a couple of days and then stained with TWP.

Also, I had to sand the whole deck extensively because power washing it raised the wood grain quite a bit.

I don't want to simply strip the deck and start all over, until it is clear what went wrong. Any suggestions? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks. Al

Looks like it was applied unevenly or possibly the stain was not mixed evenly prior to and continually while applying the stain. Also could be an issue if applied in hot sun when the deck temp would soar into the 100s. To redo, strip off first and let dry. Sand evenly with 60-80 grit paper. Brightener would be last.

@administrator You gave an idea. When I stained the deck it was a hot day, still within the temperature range indicated on the product. However, it was also a very sunny, so the temperature in the sun was definitely above 100F. That said, does it mean that the maximum temperature indicated on product labels has to be intended as the temperature in the shade? That would make a huge difference, obviously.

Wood temp can be 20-30% hotter than the air temp. I would suspect this is the reason and you "flash" dried causing the uneven appearance.

https://www.deckstainhelp.com/applying-a-deck-stain-in-full-sun/

I recently stripped/brightened a cedar deck. I did a light pole sand after that process and proceeded to stain. I then realized I did not get all of the fur off and now I have an area stained that has this fur on it. Can I lightly sand these areas and then touch up stain? Or do I have to completely strip/brighten/wash/sand this area again? Luckily only part of the deck was done like this but I am really hoping to not have to do it again.  I will power stand the rest of the deck and the verticals before staining those areas.

Thanks

Forgot to add:

In which state is your deck located? Canada

How much sun/shade does your deck get? Full sun in the morning, indirect sun in the afternoon.

What type of wood is your deck made of?  Cedar

   4. Do you have mold or mildew issues? Had some mold after using penefin 

What type of stain did you use last time?  Mesmers UV plus.

@elav Not sure but it would not hurt to try. Rent a buffer and sand:

https://www.deckstainhelp.com/wood-fuzzies-furring-on-deck/

Light recoat after if it seems to work.

One of these you mean? Do you have a pad or grit size you would recommend? Thank you.

Yes. We typically use just a white or red pad to buff off fuzzies. If needed, you can also get the sanding discs and use them under the pads.