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20 yr old deck good condition. Some peeling of solid Behr solid stain.

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(@fishman57)
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My 20 yr old

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deck in central CT. is in good shape. I have recoated it with Behr every 2 or 3 yrs. I went from transparent to solid stain. If I use a blower I get edges lifting  on stain and bare wood under it. I have been peeling and restaining. I`m wondering if I should or can use some Premium coating over it to stop the peeling. . Its about 40X10.  Restore a Deck looks good but who sells it? And will it stay down over the Behr ( that dosen`t seem to want to come off except for the peeling) or  will I need to spend $$$$ to redo it with Restore every few years?A local lumber yard recommended just going over it with BM Arbor coat that seems to get a bad rep here.  Or...If any has a recommendation I`ll appreciate it. Regards Thomas


   
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Scott Paul ~ Restoring Wood & Decks Since 1993
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You cannot fix this unless you fix the root of the problem which is the peeling Behr. To fix it, you have to remove it and start over. This would require heavy stripping and or sanding.


   
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(@fishman57)
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Thanks I was dreading that. Anyway I`ll read about that on here. The only thing I don`t like is will I be able to get all the Behr off . I guess using stripping chemicals and sanders will work, but what about the rails , steps, and spindles? They are not peeling, can I just go over them with a new stain?  It might be too much of a job to tackle right now. Until I research it. Then decide. I know you are right . Thanks for taking the time to respond. My local "experts" said just use Benjamin Moore Arbor at $250 5 gal and you`re good! 


   
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Scott Paul ~ Restoring Wood & Decks Since 1993
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(@fishman57)
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Thanks for the suggestion! That might work as nothing is peeling on the spindles or rails .Right now I`m thinking I`m going to rent a edge floor sander with coarse grit paper to get as much off as I can, after checking screws and nails. If I can get all of the peeling off I really don`t want to go for bare wood unless the sander will do it. A friend just did this with good results. As I am getting up there and had a recent hernia surgery, If I would rather hire someone to just  strip the deck what would I expect from them as far as time and technique and cost in  CT area 06712 for a 40 X 10 deck? 


   
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Scott Paul ~ Restoring Wood & Decks Since 1993
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Sorry, but no idea what a contractor would charge in your area.


   
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(@fishman57)
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Thats OK . Just wondering. I`ll try to post what I end up doing,and the result. Thanks. I still have alot of reading to do. Thanks for all the information! 


   
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(@fishman57)
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Hi Scott  So I purchased 4 gal of RAD deck stain remover. I only put down about 1/2 gal as a test with a brush. It was like spreading Greek Yogurt!I can imagine trying to spray it.  It came out white but turned clear. I left it on about 20 hrs in the right corner of my deck, but not the step. It didn`t seem to work that well.. possibly I did not put it on thick enough? It did bubble and soften some stain but not enough to clear down to wood. Some areas did not even bubble. So after hauling the power washer up to take of the RAD, I continued to clear away the peeling areas.The pictures show where I am at. So my question now is should I keep going with the RAD remover in spots where there is still solid stain?I can try a heavier coat....or  Do I rent an edge  sander? I`m thinking if I got off all the loose or peeling parts maybe I can just  recoat with solid stain? But probably I should continue until I get to the wood somehow. I was thinking about the 2 tone suggestion .....Any advise on continuing from  my current  point?   Thanks 

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Scott Paul ~ Restoring Wood & Decks Since 1993
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I assume you mean the RAD PaintStrip, not the RAD Stain Stripper? Did you test spot first to determine how thick to apply and the needed dwell time?

From Description

Before general use, test on a small area to determine compatibility, required dwell time, and coverage for desired results. For an estimated 5 or less coats, scrape a section of the area with a stripping tool after one hour of dwell time. If not easily down to wood after one hour, leave on longer and test again hourly. For 10 – 15 coats of paint, cover with plastic and wait 24 hours to test. For best results, cover the stripper with plastic and do not allow to dry.

Two tones are great if you want easier maintenance in the future and you can get the rest of the solid off the floor by stripping and or sanding:

DECKSTAINHELP.COM "https://www.deckstainhelp.com/why-have-a-two-toned-deck/"
Two-Toned Decks in 2024: Pro Tips, Advice, & Advantages
There are several advantages to having a two-toned deck. Blend the deck in better with the house without having to give up the natural wood look is one benefit.

Tips on recoating with a solid stain:


   
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(@fishman57)
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Yes I did use the Paint stripper! Looks like I bought the wrong remover!   I did test but didn`t see much activity after 20 min so I left it on.It was fairly thick coat.  And a small area. About 3X5. So I guess I will have to get the stain stripper!(oops I guess there isn`t one!)  And try again. If I use the right product ( Stain Remover), should I try to remove all the stain areas with it or sand? 

This post was modified 1 year ago by fishman57

   
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(@fishman57)
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So it looks like Paint stripper is for solid stains also. I will do a better test with heavier application, and try removing after intervals. Do you recommend proceeding with the RAD for the rest of the stain or RAD and sanding if there are stubborn spots? Or sanding anyway after. Once I get to that step ,I`ll do more reading! 


   
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Scott Paul ~ Restoring Wood & Decks Since 1993
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@fishman57 You had the correct stripper. 


   
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Scott Paul ~ Restoring Wood & Decks Since 1993
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@fishman57 We would strip as much as you are able to with the RAD PaintStrip and then spot sand after if needed to get off the flooring.


   
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(@fishman57)
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Thanks so much. This is  big project I wasn`t looking forward to,but with your help its getting done.


   
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(@fishman57)
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Hi Scott

 

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So I have removed most of the solid stain using the RAD. There are a few tough spots that need either more RAD or sanding.I choose to leave railings and spindles solid as they are mostly good. I`m leaving the 12 back stairs as no one uses them or sees them.Stripped the 3 to the yard. I had to replace a rotted floor board,and handrail.I was not able to complete this yet as a few personal issues arose. But I`m back at it now. I ordered the cleaner and brightener and a large brush. I think I need a rented floor  sander ,and borrowed power hand sander. I think the power washer beat the wood up pretty good in a few spots. Tried to back off , but not great removal results ,so hoping sanding will help Alot! A few questions as I proceed:  Should I use RAD on the stubborn spots or go to floor, hand sanding? How to I deal with the new replacement PT boards that really stand out? Can  sanding or brightening  help  match?  I think with the age and condition I will order oil based semi transparent in a mid or darker shade.Any ideas on that? Should I plan on waiting for dry warm weather for a 2-3 days first and try to sand and stain ASAP after ?I will read up more as its been awhile since I was working on this. Its been raining on and off . Despite covering the vinyl siding with plastic the power washer did get RAD spray onto it and I have some white speckles I belive are the gray color bleached out on the siding  by the RAD.Not much I can do except replace siding  I think? Didn`t think it would go up that far! Thanks for your help ,I`m learning alot and getting closer to finishing.. I hope


   
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