Please post some pics in the forum of the wood.I am confused about whether I need to, or can, stain my deck, which was rebuilt 4 years ago with a type of lumber product called Elite Decking. Are you familiar with this? It is Douglas fir, definitely pressure treated but the product descriptions seem to indicate that it's something different from whatever regular pressure-treating is, and is also pre-stained, or dyed, with color that is now wearing off unevenly. The contractor who built the deck said it should be stained after weathering for at least a year, but I just spoke to the lumber yard that sold the product and they said, first, that this product isn't actually recommended for decks because it checks and warps, and second that because it is treated so heavily, it won't accept stain and the only treatment that is compatible with it is a clear sealant (they recommended Wolman Raincoat.) The wood has been weathering for several years, as I said, and water readily soaks in. Are you familiar with this product, and are your recommendations for it different from regular pressure-treated wood? I was planning to go with a penetrating semi-transparent, but now I'm unclear on whether that's a suitable choice. I don't mind about the color being uneven but I do want to protect the wood in whatever way is appropriate. On the previous deck, I got into that cycle of accumulating film-forming pigmented stains and I really don't want to start down that road again inadvertently.
I live in western Washington. The deck is shaded most of the time, but gets direct sun about half the day in spring and summer. It has some mold and mildew in places and is quite slippery when wet. There has been some warping and checking, but it's minor.
Thanks for your help!
Have been working on this deck since last summer. Am only able to remove "most" of previous finish, after renting commercial sander (areas under railing cannot be reached) , multiple heavy duty power washings, stripper, etc. Did a test set of stairs last fall, used 2 coats Pittsburgh Paramount, already beginning to fail (small areas of bare wood showing)
Although extremely helpful, I am overwhelmed by the amount of information on this website! I am assuming that I cannot use oil based product due to previous mixed media. What is my best bet going forward ... is anything going to work if I cannot get all the old finish off?
Stripper?
Brightener?
Finish - Solid? Water Base?
Product Recommendations?
We would suggest getting it all off. For most of the stain left, we suggest the RAD stripper with both additives. Apply, let dwell for 45 minutes, and then pressure wash off.
- 1. Indiana
- 2. Large (500 sf+) 2 level deck, one level in full sun, one level in predominantly shade - almost 30 years old, sun deck obviously in worse shape
- 3. Pressure Treated Wood
- 4. Minimal Mold or Mildew Issues, does come off with power washing
- 5. Peeling, cracking
- Have used oil or acrylic products in the past.
Have been working on this deck since last summer. Am only able to remove "most" of previous finish, after renting commercial sander (areas under railing cannot be reached) , multiple heavy duty power washings, stripper, etc. Did a test set of stairs last fall, used 2 coats Pittsburgh Paramount, already beginning to fail (small areas of bare wood showing)
Although extremely helpful, I am overwhelmed by the amount of information on this website! I am assuming that I cannot use oil based product due to previous mixed media. What is my best bet going forward ... is anything going to work if I cannot get all the old finish off?
Stripper?
Brightener?
Finish - Solid? Water Base?
Product Recommendations?
Once done, spot strip the stain that did not come off with the RAD Paint Strip. These will be the "thicker areas":
Once the stain is 95-100% removed, brighten all the wood and then use a penetrating semi-transparent stain:
Here are some views! I've included a water splash (drops stay partly on the surface for a few moments, are fully absorbed within 20 seconds); the worst board; some exposed and more-protected areas; some ends. Please let me know if you need to see something different. Thanks!
Clean and brighten all wood for prep and then use a penetrating semi-transparent stain that is similar in color. Only 1 coat.Here are some views! I've included a water splash (drops stay partly on the surface for a few moments, are fully absorbed within 20 seconds); the worst board; some exposed and more-protected areas; some ends. Please let me know if you need to see something different. Thanks!
Canada, smaller deck
pressure treated pine
we like the look of the wood when it rains, mostly the deep color in grains over shine
trying to find a product that won’t peel or chip that will create this look, and I do not want to have to strip or sand in the future. I don’t mind reapplying oils frequently if I can get the look I want. When dry it looks like the horizontal board in 2nd picture. Please help I haven’t been able to find a Paint person that can help solve this. I’ve tried nine samples of various water-based and oil products, including Olympic and behr. Cannot get some of the most recommended products in Canada due to VO2 restrictions
Armstrong Clark stain in Natural color is what you would want here:
You can have it shipped to you.
Invaluable resource, this. Thank you in advance.
Woodstock, NY. Cedar Deck - Kiln dried. Installed in June. Partially covered/partially exposed to lots of sun. No mold/mildew. Main problem: over applied Ready Seal created blotches, oily residue (which tracks inside house), smell of oil or wax in certain weather, ugly.
Contractor used Ready Seal and did not wait or prep. He lightly spot-sanded. Two coats later it was blotchy and smelly and oil tracked in thru house. I used oxiclean and water solution to remove excess stain but ended up removing all of it. Wood now has some fuzzies. Do I need to sand before brightening and applying semi-transparent TWP 100? (Do I need to sand at all?)
Photos show before/after (during cleaning) and a pic of fuzzies.
Thank you, kindly.
No pictures were loaded correctly. You cannot use HEIC files.
Never mind, I got the pics to load. There is no need for sand. Ready to stain.
@administrator Shall I use a brightener or may I move directly on to staining (without waiting for anything beyond good weather)?
And...there are "halos" of old stain(?) where the puddles dried. What do to about them?
Thx
Do the brightener.@administrator Shall I use a brightener or may I move directly on to staining (without waiting for anything beyond good weather)?
Thx
Ah...I see that brightener should be applied while the deck is wet. Optimally: directly after cleaning. My cleaning process lasted two days and dries out quickly due to 80 degree weather.
My plan is to rinse the deck with water in the morning, add the brightener, rinse the brightener while it's still wet, and then let it dry out before applying stain (probably the following morning).
Is this correct? If not, please set me straight.
Thank you very much.