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LazyC
(@lazyc)
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@administrator

Thank you.


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a1stain
(@a1stain)
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Joined: 5 months ago
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  • Ontario, Canada
  • 2. Full Sun
  • 3. Weathered Cedar (7 years, never coated)
  • 4. Mold or Mildew Issues: not significant
  • 5. Main Issues with Previous Stains: none applied

 

Hi, I'm not sure if this is right thread to post, but I'm wondering if you've reviewed the product being distributed in Canada under the Dulux brand as "CWF-UV5 Penetrating Wood Finish". This does NOT appear to be an oil-based stain and is NOT equivalent to Flood CWF-UV5. Dulux has some other products that actually are oil based, but this is not one. A client is asking me to use this and I'm hesitant because I have no experience with it and would not choose a water-based stain myself. 

 

Do you have any experience with this product?

 

Thanks a million,

This post was modified 5 months ago by Scott Paul ~ Restoring Wood & Decks Since 1993

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Scott Paul ~ Restoring Wood & Decks Since 1993
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Joined: 11 years ago
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No, we have not used it and we would be hesitant as well.


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dgriffin
(@dgriffin)
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  • 1. Ontario, Canada
  • 2. Partial Shade
  • 3. NEW lumber - Pressure Treated CAB premium Tanatone 
  • 4. No Mold or Mildew Issues
  • 5. New install November 2021, not stained.  

Should we still clean and brighten with deck restore before applying stain?  Thank you!

 


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Scott Paul ~ Restoring Wood & Decks Since 1993
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Yes, clean and brighten for prep. Try TWP 200 Series or Armstong Clark Stains. 


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dgriffin
(@dgriffin)
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@administrator This is very helpful, thank you so much.


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VKelley
(@vkelley)
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I live in North West New Jersey, in the Jersey Mountains.  30 years ago I installed cedar deck.  Over the years, I used semitransparent Olympic Maximum every 2-3 years; however, after about 20 or so years, i started getting this black mold that would eat away at the cedar.  Last fall I purchased new cedar boards, and have stacked in my barn.  I am taking them out in a few weeks to re-build my deck.  I do not want to stain the boards but preserve these from the mold that eats away at horizontal cedar deck boards.  What is the best oil to use given my climate?  Do I oil both sides prior to installation?  If not, how does the underside of the cedar wood get conditioned?


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Scott Paul ~ Restoring Wood & Decks Since 1993
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No stain = no UV protection and your wood will gray in months. Do you want this? No need to coat all sides, just the exposed wood. 


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VKelley
(@vkelley)
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@administrator 

My intention is to coat my cedar.  My house is also, cedar, Tung and Groove siding.  My builder said i need to stain both sides to prevent warping.  If I understand your reply, for decking, I do not need to coat both sides of the wood to prevent warping.  Is this correct read?

Do you have recommendation for the best type of oil to use for cedar boards?  In my research, it seems there are folks advocating for both water based and oil.  Thoughts?

 

Thank you again


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Scott Paul ~ Restoring Wood & Decks Since 1993
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Joined: 11 years ago
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Topic starter  

No, you do not need to coat both or all sides, just the exposed side. Coating all sides does not prevent warping and can create issues with breathability.

You did not answer if you wanted it to gray naturally in months with a clear or if you wanted a color/stain to prevent graying.


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Trixier
(@trixier)
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Joined: 4 months ago
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I used RAD stain about 3 years ago.  Now I need to re-stain but I have a lot of mildew.  Not sure why.  The deck is in the sun, but I am in CT so we have the changing of the seasons.

My question is what would be the best way to clean the deck prior to re-staining? I thought RAD was supposed to inhibit the growth of mold and mildew.

Thanks.


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Scott Paul ~ Restoring Wood & Decks Since 1993
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Topic starter  

Use the RAD Cleaner and Brightener Prep kits. The RAD stain will prevent mildew from growing in the stain but no deck stain can even mildew from growing on top of it. Mildew and mold can grow on top of any surface if the environment calls for it.


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clove1
(@clove1)
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@jeff-caron

I power washed our deck last night and hope to stain it next week since it's going to rain Saturday. We are using a semi-transparent stain because that's what was on it when we bought the house. We did it about 4 years ago and it took forever using a roller and brushing it out. Hoping to make it go faster this time. The girl in the paint department at Lowes says you can spray even the semi-transparent stains with a deck sprayer (the same thing as a chemical sprayer for gardening) and brush it out. Last time we had trouble with it drying too fast due to the sun so I'm planning to do it over a few evenings since it's shaded in the evening. Does that sound like a good plan? It wasn't soaking in before drying last time and ended up more like paint, which quickly failed. Except for the vertical railing surfaces which are all in great shape still. But they are more shaded.

This post was modified 3 months ago by Scott Paul ~ Restoring Wood & Decks Since 1993

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Scott Paul ~ Restoring Wood & Decks Since 1993
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Not all semi-transparent stains can be sprayed, especially the ones that are more like paint or solid stain. Doing it in sections will most likely result in it not drying evenly. 

What stain brand are you using?


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SueHeck
(@sueheck)
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Hi, my name is Lana and I really need an advice.

  • 1. Ontario, Canada
  • 2. Full sun
  • 3. Decking tiles from Ikea (Solid acacia wood, Acrylic stain) 
  • 4. No Mold or Mildew Issues
  • 5. Installed a year ago, never stained

I`ve installed decking tiles from Ikea on my balcony a year ago. After a year of snow and rain, it looked really bad. So, I bought wood stain from Ikea (had the same colour, that`s why I`ve bought it - VÅRDA) and restained the tiles. The floor looks beautiful and shiny now, but at the same time, it is SOOOO slippery. Nobody wants to go to the balcony anymore. Could you please give me any advice about how to fix this problem? Thank you.

 


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