-Covered deck, shady and prone to mold
-Pressure treated, 6 years old
-Stained with Behr Semi-Transparent Cedartone 6 years ago.
I used RAD stripper and pressure washed off as much stain as possible. Followed with RAD Brightener.
I was hoping to give the deck boards a quick sand to remove fuzzies any leftover stain but the grooves become quite noticeable the more I sand. I tried using both 60 and 80 grit, belt sander and palm, but the grooves/stripes are impossible to remove. I thought I was careful but maybe I created the grooves after pressure washing?
I stained one board as a test with Armstrong Clark Semi-Transparent Natural Oak. Pics attached. Sanded boards are bright, unsanded are the bottom boards.
Should I just do a light sand moving forward even though I won't remove all of the existing stain? I have a baby crawling around on this deck frequently and was hoping to get it fairly smooth with 80.
You will need to evenly sand this so the stain takes evenly. Do all with 80 grit and then apply one coat of the AC.
Thank you. So you're suggesting that I sand until the grooves/stripes are gone? It takes about 10 minutes of sanding per deck board, I was nervous I was over sanding.
Yes, sand it all so the stain takes evenly. Clean and brighten after for final prep to open up the pores.
Stripped wood of old stain with chemical and power washing, then brightener, rinse, dried for 3 days, applied stain, but appearance not good due to all the fuzzy wood from prepping for stain. Just finished last week. See pics. Stain company, wooddefender, says ok to apply second coat as stain is formulated to allow second coat to penetrate. Can I buff out fuzzies and restain to improve appearance? Or should I leave alone and if so will fuzzies go away? Lastly, other than appearance, is there another problem/issue fuzzies create?
You cannot buff them off once stained. You would have to remove the stain, then sand/buff them off. They do not go away naturally and they do not cause any issue outside of apperance.