Brand New Deck

Thanks for the link to the informative article, which I hadn't read. This leads to another question. Many of the boards in my new deck have big (ugly) black ink stamps (manufacturer's info) which I was planning to remove via sanding. However, the article states that sanding should be avoided, since this will reduce the stain's ability to penetrate the wood. Any suggestions? (btw, it wasn't always possible to face the ink stamps downward when installing the boards) Thanks ...

Those ink marks are a pain to deal with. Sanding them off may leave "smooth" spots where the stain will penetrate less, causing lighter stain color in the sanded areas. If you sand you should sand the entire deck, let weather for a couple of months, then clean and brighten to prep.

Thanks for your quick response. Unfortunately, sanding the entire deck will undoubtedly result in loss of protective coating on too many screw heads, no matter how careful I am during the sanding process. I could replace those screws, but I'm not sure I want to go this route at this point. I'll need to test sanded vs unsanded (spare) boards with stain. As you indicated, the ink marks are indeed a pain to deal with.

We have never found an easy solution for those stamps. They do go away naturally in a year or so.

The article entitled "Staining New Decks" was very helpful. What is the most effective way to remove mill glaze? Will a cleaner and brightener such as Restore-A-Deck really do a good job in removing the glaze? A large number of websites suggest sanding it off using 60- or 80-grit sandpaper. I have noticed that sanding with 60-grit sandpaper makes the wood much more receptive to staining. If I finish with 120-grit sandpaper, the wood loses some staining "receptiveness" but still takes more stain than glazed wood. Also, will the chemicals in the cleaning and brightening products affect the protective coating on screw heads? Btw, the wood on my deck is pressure-treated pine. Lastly, do you have any experience with the product called "One Time"? Thanks for your help and suggestions (and sorry for all the questions)...

A cleaner and brightener with light pressure washing or scrubbing will remove the mill glaze. We are not a fan of sanding unless really needed. If you sand, 60 grit is best. Cleaners will not hurt the coatings on the screws. We have tested One Time and did not like it. There seems to be mixed opinions on it. On thing is for certain, it does not last 7 years: One Time Review

Thanks once again for the useful info and suggestions. Also, that was interesting info about One Time.

Greetings -

I have just installed a new tongue & groove Siberian larch "floating deck" mounted on steel channel above a roofing membrane. The deck is covered and rear ventilated but still receives strong early sun and rain that blows in under the roof. Despite great on-line reviews of the wood and many assurances from the supplier, after only one wet weekend we have dark localized spotting in 3 places where water blew in and likely sat until it dried (hours, not days).

The wood is beautiful and we want to protect that, but it is also new and dense/tightly grained. If I clean it to remove some of the mill glaze, can I go straight to something like an oil-based TWP?

Can oil even be used on larch? If not, what do you recommend?

I also see above you note that timber oil can later be covered with something like TWP or Armstrong Clark. Am I reading that correctly?

Many thanks, Cole

dwell, New wood can be stained right away. Please read Staining a New Deck.

You can use a penetrating oil stain for this.

We have a 2 new decks (front and back of house) and would like to know your recommendation for stain. Here's the answers to the 5 questions:
1. Washington state
2. Partial shade. Front deck has morning sun and afternoon shade the back deck has morning shade afternoon sub.
3. Cedar (new never stained 4months old)
4. Yes. Mold grows here however this wood doesn't curtly have any on it.

5. New deck/wood

Please read this:

http://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/

I had my new deck stained with One Time Wood in Clove Brown 1 week ago. The person I hired forgot to remove a handful of the ink stamps & they are showing through. How can I remove the ink stamps now that the deck has been stained?

You really cannot do that much. If you sand through the stain to remove and touch up the spots it will look spotty.

I am planning to build a brand new deck in Austin, Texas, full sun, sometimes mildew problems. From the articles, it looks like the TWP would be the best deck stain for either IPE or cedar. Is that correct?

Not for brand new wood. This will help: http://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/ <