[Sticky] Deck Staining Help

I should add, the wood is extremely dense and therefore, I would think it less prone to hold much moisture for very long.

Thanks,

Jeff

I live in the Twin Cities, MN. I have a cedar deck which faces east so its mostly in full sun. I have no mold or mildew issues. I've already stripped it with stripper chemical then used a wood restorer. Last time I used Benjamin Moore transparent mahogany and that is what is still on the skirt board, beam, post, ect. I only had to strip the base and handrail top. Im looking to match that color with another stain at the top of your ratings list and the only mahogany I can find is the armstrong but that sais it is semi transparent. Im just looking for suggestions on matching that transparent mahogany, thanks, this site is great!

The AC would match the best and is what we would try.

State: Colorado (8,500' altitude, eastern side of the Rockies)

Deck materials: Pressure treated pine

no mildew problems

1/4 of deck get sun most of the day while the rest is shaded.

Issues: There is a porch that is about 10 years old and a small deck was added by previous owner about 2-5 years ago. The porch section has 3 colors/layers of paint and stain as seen in the first picture. The deck seems to have been stained as seen in the second picture. These are after test preps with scraping and then using SuperDeck Stripper. First question, am I looking at stripping and sanding the porch and then strip/spot sand for the deck portion? Is there a better approach? Second, I have access to the following finishes, TWP 100, SuperDeck Elastomeric Deck & Dock, SWP Deckscapes and Cabot's. Any suggestions on which of these my fair best in our climate?

Thanks!

Strippers will not remove the paint. You will need to sand. For the deck I would use TWP in the Cape Cod Gray after stripping as much as you can get off the deck.

I was thinking about maybe using some paint stripper like Ready Strip Pro, on the painted section first which is 8x6 and then deck stripper on the larger stained section. I was thinking this might lessen the amount of sanding required. How does that sound? It seem that TWP 100 works best with a well prepped surface.

Also, why Cape Cod Grey, for a lighter, more reflective surface?

Thanks!

Cape Cod to blend as I doubt you will get off all of the old gray. You may be able to strip some of the painted deck but you will still need to sand.

State: Colorado, High Rockies, Full sun intense sunlight at altitude

Wood is Redwood with new construction on all areas. The wood looked so amazing when delivered and has faded so quickly with the strong sun. I want to sand and wash and then stain/seal with the best product that will protect the investment of the deck, and I want to keep the best color available

After the prep try the Armstrong Clark in the Amber color.

Location: Northern New Jersey
Deck Type: Diamomd Decking (Brand) a brazilian type wood, very hard
60% Sun/40% Shade
Very little of mold and mildew.
a new deck was installed 6 years ago and oil based stain (unknown brand at this time)was applied without penetration. No more applications since and the deck is 90% greyed out now.
What preparation and staining is recommended as I'd like to give the deck an original color - brown and also the ability to easy clean and reaply new coats in the future. Thanks in advance for the advise

I have some long moderately steep stairs coming down from my deck. I am having a guy prep and stain the deck and stairs. I suggested the TWP 100, based on info on this site (thanks). He suggested I look at a Graco product to make the stairs more slip-resistant.

If I did want to make the stairs less slippery, what would you recommend I do?

Thanks!

Seattle
Pressure treated lumber
mostly shade, some late afternoon sun

If you want the stairs to have traction then you need a thick paint like coating with a grit. We are not fans of these products as we like the natural wood look and they are prone to peeling.

I live in Maryland and have a 500sq ft pressure treated deck about 8 years old. It gets full sun in the afternoons and has been prone to algae. Ive just used RAD to strip and brighten. It worked real well and now the wood looks almost new. I was thinking of putting Armstrong Clark stain, but am concernerned about the color. We like to see the grain, and dont want it too dark. Will the transparent "tones" work very well? They have a redwood and Amber that show grain. The semi-transparents look like they may be too solid. More protection but less wood look. If I use the transparent tones can I just clean and recoat after a couple of years? Is another brand more appropriate? I really like the ease of application described in the review.

Use a semi-transparent for better UV protection and they show all the wood grain.

Hello... We live in the Twin Cities in Minnesota... We put on a new Cedar deck late summer of 2012 and left it unfinished to allow the tannents to leave the wood.. We have just power washed it.... There was no mold or mildew... Nothing on the cedar at all... The deck is in Full Sun to partial shade... We are hoping to have a finish as close to the look of wet cedar as possible... We are hoping for low maintenance... We were thinking of using linseed oil but it has no UV protection... Also thought of Australian Timber Oil Natural... Do you have an idea of what would be our best choice...