[Sticky] Deck Staining Help

Bad prep and application. You will have to fully remove to fix and that will not be easy. Strip and sand. Brighten last.

Not even 2 years have passsed and after stripping, sanding, brightening, and staining there are areas where the Restore-a-deck stain has completely flaked off. I noticed this occurring in some areas after just one year on areas that were sanded to the bare wood using the recommended grit sandpaper. For the record I stripped some areas and sanded other areas. The entire deck was brightened. I am now thinking that I want to go oil based - perhaps Armstrong. At this point I am thinking I once again need to strip, brighten and stain. Is that correct? Any thoughts on why Restore-a-deck failed for me? Are there any other steps you would recommend since I will be going from water based to oil? Also my plan is to apply process to the top of rails and the deck but not to the deck spindles or balusters since that appears to be the only area that lasted; unless coating oil over the water stain would be okay on the balusters.

Yes, correct. Strip and brighten the wood. The only reason it would have failed is if you over-applied or it dried on top of the wood instead of in the wood. You cannot apply the oil-based over the water-based.

1. North Carolina (Charlotte)
2. Full Sun
3. Type of Wood (Type 2 lumber see photo)
4. New deck (1 year) no Mold or Mildew Issues
5. Main Issues: How to select stain and procedure

Our new deck was built by a contractor that used Type 2 grade lumber. We were told to wait some time before staining and it is now almost a year. The sun has curved slightly some of the lumber. What stain product do you recommend? SHould we try sanding down some of the ends that have curved abit making surface not completely flat? Also the stamps in the lumber make the transparent stain perhaps an issue as the stamps will be seen. Any advice is welcomed.

See this about the stamps:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-remove-the-ink-stamps-from-new-decking/

Spot sand those and then the wood weather for a couple of months. Clean and brighten the wood for the final prep. For the stain, use TWP 100 Series or Armstrong Clark.

@administrator

Thank you for the quick response. Where can we purchase TWP 100 series stain? Couldn't find this product in Lowe's or HomeDepot.

Check online. No quality stains are sold at Lowes or HD.

We had a new deck installed in 2017 at our summer oceanfront cottage in the Acadia region of Maine. We think it’s cedar. Our caretaker stained 2 of the three sides with Behr solid stain that fall and it was peeling badly by the following spring. He Then pressure washed it and left it bare to the elements until this summer, with the result that several boards began to rot. He has now replaced those with similarly weathered cedar, which he freshly sanded. I don’t know what grit was used, but I can go over the added boards with 60 grit myself if necessary. The deck has been pressure washed again since the attached pics were taken, but it is still somewhat two-toned. There were also new steps installed in the spring. There is still some old stain clinging to the knotholes, which I have tried to showed in the pictures. The deck faces East, north and west; two sides see plenty of sun and the third is mostly shaded. Snow and ice sit on it through the winter, when the house is hard to get to. Mold, algae and lichen are potential problems. I am wondering what stain to order. Will a semi-transparent one work given the condition of the wood, or do we need to go with a solid color? I have tried samples of both from restore-a-deck on scraps from the removed planks, and the semi-transparent light walnut and the solid gray both look good. Please advise. Will I need to use cleaner (or stripper) and Brightener if we cover with a solid stain? We would like to get this done this month if possible as nothing seems to get done when we’re gone.

You will need a solid stain to get it to all blend. Strip and brighten the wood for prep.

I recently built a free-standing wooden swing. The frame is made from fir and pressure-treated lumber. The swing itself is a beautiful redwood. I would like to protect it with the upcoming winter. What clear protectant do you recommend?

1. State you live in - Utah
2. Full Shade, Partial Shade, or Full Sun - Full sun
3. Type of Wood - pressure-treated, fir & redwood
4. Mold or Mildew Issues - No
5. Main Issues with Previous Stains - not stained yet.

The fir 4x4 beams are still leaching sap so I don't think I can stain those yet but mostly worried about the seat of the swing.

Clear has no UV protection from graying. Must be tinted. See here about new wood tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/

Gazebo, 30 yr old Red Cedar, using TWP 100 oil based stain, stripped and brighten with Restore-a-deck (Used pressure washer)

We are hoping to start staining the spindles today since they are labor intensive. We have had cloudy weather with lows of 60s and highs 80s with humidity of 85%. They are reading 16-18% moisture level. It will be 48 hours at noon. Can we start at noon with this moisture level?

We have rain coming on Monday.
If we are unable to complete before rain, we will not be able to stain again until Thursday next week. Do we have to use the Brightner again before waiting 48 hours after rain?

Go ahead and stain. No need to redo the prep.

Thank you!

Can I put a dark walnut stain directly on these redish ceilings? The wood does not have any poly or varnish - it appears very dry. Or do I need to strip it down to no stain at all?