[Sticky] Deck Staining Help

Quote from administrator on May 13, 21:58
1. Really up to you. It is okay to have a gray oxidized deck that is sealed from other elements
2. Prep with a deck cleaner and wood brightener while washing. Nothing else is needed.

I am truly grateful for the tremendous knowledge you're so willing to share, and this site overall. Ive paid handymen to do things I cant myself, due to being disabled and have so far found they say they'll do certain jobs but then one has to supervise and question each step, apparently.

And they tend to go use whatever products theyve left over or can get cheap or something.

In any case, to put some context to what Im dealing with, here are two pix that i hope upload.
(a)The closeup shows cracks and either pollen or mildew- not sure which.
(b)The perspective is a wider view of the deck so the grey/unevennness shows.
For the deck cleaner I guess it has to be appplied before the water is used in the power wash.
I hope it will deal with the mildew. But with the cracks as shown is anything else necessary before applying the clear seal?

Thank you so much again.
W.

I dont mind how it looks in terms of color,it could be claimed it's natural Although I dont know if that will just translate to uncared for.

more important than appearance, are the cracks and mildew fixable v if i request they use a deck cleaner (and buy one of the Lowes variety) and supply it?

1. Seattle
2. Mostly full sun, partly shady in places
3. Cedar, 4 years old
4. I'm in Seattle, so mold can be an issue, but the floor boards (in full sun) don't tend to get moldy. The fencing/railings/stairs in part shade do get a bit moldy.
5. I've tried Penefin oil based twice-very unhappy with results. Within months, the deck looks black--both times. Want to try avoid oil based stain. Want semi-transparent stain ...would that be latex or other? We'll be stripping and sanding to prepare deck before staining.

Thanks for your help!

Quote from wpease on May 14, 00:27

Quote from administrator on May 13, 21:58
1. Really up to you. It is okay to have a gray oxidized deck that is sealed from other elements
2. Prep with a deck cleaner and wood brightener while washing. Nothing else is needed.

I am truly grateful for the tremendous knowledge you're so willing to share, and this site overall. Ive paid handymen to do things I cant myself, due to being disabled and have so far found they say they'll do certain jobs but then one has to supervise and question each step, apparently.

And they tend to go use whatever products theyve left over or can get cheap or something.

In any case, to put some context to what Im dealing with, here are two pix that i hope upload.
(a)The closeup shows cracks and either pollen or mildew- not sure which.
(b)The perspective is a wider view of the deck so the grey/unevennness shows.
For the deck cleaner I guess it has to be appplied before the water is used in the power wash.
I hope it will deal with the mildew. But with the cracks as shown is anything else necessary before applying the clear seal?

Thank you so much again.
W.

I dont mind how it looks in terms of color,it could be claimed it's natural Although I dont know if that will just translate to uncared for.

more important than appearance, are the cracks and mildew fixable v if i request they use a deck cleaner (and buy one of the Lowes variety) and supply it?

Nothing needed for the cracks. The deck cleaner should help remove the mold. Use a wood brightener as well. Apply the cleaner then lightly pressure wash off. Apply the wood brightener when done.. Let dry for a few days then apply the clear.

Quote from zabu on May 14, 00:27
1. Seattle
2. Mostly full sun, partly shady in places
3. Cedar, 4 years old
4. I'm in Seattle, so mold can be an issue, but the floor boards (in full sun) don't tend to get moldy. The fencing/railings/stairs in part shade do get a bit moldy.
5. I've tried Penefin oil based twice-very unhappy with results. Within months, the deck looks black--both times. Want to try avoid oil based stain. Want semi-transparent stain ...would that be latex or other? We'll be stripping and sanding to prepare deck before staining.

Thanks for your help!

Penofin turns black on most decks and that is related to the product, not being oil based. Make sure to strip if off and brighten the deck for prep. Stain with TWP 100 Series (oil based) or Defy Extreme (water based). Both are penetrating stains that will not turn black and both do well to prevent mold growth.

Quote from administrator on December 29, 11:58
When asking questions on Deck Staining please include:

<ul>1. State you live in</ul>
<ul>2. Full Shade, Partial Shade, or Full Sun</ul>
<ul>3. Type of Wood</ul>
<ul>4. Mold or Mildew Issues</ul>
<ul>5. Main Issues with Previous Stains</ul>

I will be staining a new cedar deck with TWP(in MN with full sun)…can I use a roller to apply to the deck floor boards? vs a paint brush…what would you suggest?

Quote from administrator on May 14, 09:44[/b]

/Nothing needed for the cracks. The deck cleaner should help remove the mold. Use a wood brightener as well. Apply the cleaner then lightly pressure wash off. Apply the wood brightener when done.. Let dry for a few days then apply the clear.

To order the rad kit I called the supplier; the person on the line said to let the brightener sit 15 minutes and wash off with a garden hose; so could you clarify please- is 15 minutes too short, does it need to dry a few days before the clear sealant/stain is applied?

also, does TWP 1500 Clear need to be applied twice, ie 2 coats?
Thanks
W.

15 minutes for the brightener is fine. Yes you have to let the wood dry for a few days. Apply two coats wet on wet.

Quote from administrator on December 29, 11:58
When asking questions on Deck Staining please include:

<ul>1. State you live in</ul>
<ul>2. Full Shade, Partial Shade, or Full Sun</ul>
<ul>3. Type of Wood</ul>
<ul>4. Mold or Mildew Issues</ul>
<ul>5. Main Issues with Previous Stains</ul>

I have a new cedar deck that has aged for 12 months and I just used a cleaner/power washed and applied a brightener. I am using TWP 100 cedar tone stain next…should I put 2 coats on or just one? The next time I have to restain…in a year or two…can I just power wash and reapply or do I need to use a cleaner/power wash & brighten the deck again?…and then apply TWP 100. FYI…live in MN.

Thanks.

Apply two light coats wet on wet for this. When you really, just lightly clean and then recoat with a cleaner and light pressure washing.

Quote from administrator on December 29, 11:58
When asking questions on Deck Staining please include:

<ul>1. State you live in<Ohio>
<ul>2. Full Sun</ul>
<ul>3. Type of Wood<Pressure Treated Pine>
<ul>4. Mold or Mildew Issues<minor mildew>
<ul>5. Main Issues with Previous Stains<didn't last>

We have a Pressure Treated Pine Deck built May 2012, waited until fall to seal. It was recommended to clean first, using Olympic Deck Cleaner, it ruined the deck. Raised all fibers. Waited until spring and had whole deck sanded. Used Thompsons Honey Gold semi transparent stain/sealer spring and fall of 2013. Looked good for that year, by end of last season its a mess! Just pressure washed and fibers raised again. What is next step and is it recommended to use an oil base semi transparent? If so which brand... I'm considering the Timber Oil. We are in Northeast Ohio, full sun. Also, this deck is used for our swimming pool.

Look at the Armstrong Clark Stain in a semi solid color for this deck in full sun.

I am in Georgia, with a 15-year-old pine deck in full sun. I've cleaned, pressure washed, brightened and sanded the deck to the point that it looks almost like new lumber. But I've begun to apply a semi-solid Armstrong Clark stain, and I've stopped because I'm not sure I've made a good choice. The color (Mountain Cedar) on the boards I've stained looks dull, more semi-transparent than semi-solid, and it's accentuating the darker grains in the wood, making them look black. I'm not sure if that's just the way it is - maybe I was just expecting something nice and bright and colorful like the well-lit professional photographs in the ads and brochures. I'd almost rather cover up the wood grain with something more heavily pigmented than to have it look so dark and dull, but have resisted going with a solid paint-like stain. Could I have done something wrong in the prep, or is the wood itself simply old and dull, or are my expectations on what it ought to look like simply unrealistic?

Post a picture please.

Quote from administrator on May 21, 11:24
Post a picture please.

The first pic is the cleaned and prepped deck. It's not a uniform color, as some of the grains are darker, but it's as clean as I was able to get it. The second pic shows a couple of stained boards - as you can see, the dark grain that doesn't look too bad on the cleaned boards, ends up looking black under the stain, and the rest just looks kind of dingy. Wondering if the boards themselves are just not in good enough shape for a semi-solid, and whether I should bite the bullet and go solid/opaque?

The color looks normal and the dark is just the wood grain. I personally like it.