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[Sticky] Deck Staining Help

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Scott Paul ~ Restoring Wood & Decks Since 1993
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Prep with the Gemini Restore Kit and seal with the TWP 100 Series.


   
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(@scubar)
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I live in New Hampshire one block from the ocean. I have a two story building where cedar shingles on the west and south sides have been replaced two years ago. Shingles on the north and east sides are in good shape but have weathered dark after over 15 years. There are no trees to block the sun.

I plan to clean and brighten the wood to deal with any mold or mildew issues and to lighten up the older north and east sides with the goal of using a semi-transparent oil based, non-alkyd stain and have the color be the same on all sides (newer verses older sides).

Total coverage area is about 1800 s.f.

Based on the product reviews on this site, I'm leaning toward the TWP 1500 stain (would prefer the TWP 100 stain if I can get it). Would there be a better choice? Any reviews on the TWP 200 series which seem to be "great for older dried shingles" per TWP's webpage?

Thanks is advance for your response.

Ron


   
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Scott Paul ~ Restoring Wood & Decks Since 1993
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It would be best to use the TWP 1500 as the first option and the 200 for the second option. The 200 is much thicker and takes a while to cure and dry.


   
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(@scubar)
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(@scubar)
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Now I've found your response and thanks for the input. What is less desirable about the TWP 200 stain being "much thinker" and taking longer to cure and dry? As siding wouldn't be walked on, wouldn't a thicker product be better at rejuvenating the older shingles and soaking into the wood?


   
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(@scottinva)
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I couldn't figure out how to start my own topic (perhaps it's a limitation on new users to prevent spam?).

I'm looking for a product recommendation for preserving my deck. It's a pressure treated pine deck in Richmond, Virginia. I'm in the woods (very big, old trees tower over the deck), so it only gets direct sun for a few hours out of the day (some parts are full shade), and I'm a few hundred yards from the James River. Mold/Fungus/Algae are my main concerns as is extending the life of the deck as long as possible. I'd like to find a product that lasts a while (since I have 2 decks, with stairs connecting them and it's a major chore to keep up with) and doesn't require a lot of extra steps to re-apply in several years (like stripping, sanding, etc.). In Richmond, we have very humid summers, and mild winters (usually 2-3 snowstorms a year with less than a foot accumulation).

I'm not crazy about using a colored product, but I understand that's probably going to reduce how often I have to go through this obnoxious process. It would be nice to see the woodgrain though. If I did go with a color it'd probably be some type of gray. I'm pretty sure I want an oil-based stain with some sort of algaecide/fungicide agent. I've read that mold/mildew/etc. feed off of the nutrients in linseed oil used in most products, which is a concern. I've also read that you can't simply add algaecide/fungicide to existing products and have them be effective, but that they have to be integrated into the product by the manufacturer.

I'm not super-concerned with the appearance (I'll settle for pretty-good), and I don't mind paying significantly more if I can get an extra year or two out of the product (my time/labor is worth more than savings from a "budget" product).

I'd really appreciate any advice you can give. I've been Jomaxing this deck for days now and I can't wait to apply something to protect it.


   
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Scott Paul ~ Restoring Wood & Decks Since 1993
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Seems for this scenario you would want the Defy Extreme in the Driftwood Gray. No linseed oil, water based so it will not feed mold growth, zinc oxide nano particles for further mold protection.


   
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(@casiahpush)
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Hello,
My family and I just bought a brand new home in Seattle. It has a beautiful roof deck with no treatment on the cedar wood. Because it's getting close to the rainy season (Oct-April) We would like to stain our decks. What product to do recommend for our area?

Thanks!

1. State you live in: Seattle, WA
2. Full Shade, Partial Shade, or Full Sun: Full Sun roof deck, but we do get a lot of drizzly days
3. Type of Wood: Cedar
4. Mold or Mildew Issues: ?
5. Main Issues with Previous Stains: This is a new deck, so no stains used prior


   
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Scott Paul ~ Restoring Wood & Decks Since 1993
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Please read this article about new wood:
http://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/

How new is it?


   
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(@scottinva)
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Quote from administrator on August 28, 10:26
Seems for this scenario you would want the Defy Extreme in the Driftwood Gray. No linseed oil, water based so it will not feed mold growth, zinc oxide nano particles for further mold protection.

Thanks. On your recommendation I ordered some. It should arrive soon, and I'll post back once it's up with my thoughts. I appreciate your advice.


   
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Scott Paul ~ Restoring Wood & Decks Since 1993
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Welcome!


   
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(@nancy)
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Does anyone have any experience with "green" deck stains such as Vermont Naturals or Hemp Guard? I would be interested hearing about: appearance, durability, ease of reapplication, and such. Any info welcome! Thanks!

1. State you live in - northern Virginia
2. Full Shade, Partial Shade, or Full Sun - SW corner of house--intense sun
3. Type of Wood - NEW (3-4 months installed) pressure treated (lumber from homedepot or Lowes)
4. Mold or Mildew Issues -not known, but climate is humid
5. Main Issues with Previous Stains none


   
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Scott Paul ~ Restoring Wood & Decks Since 1993
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Sorry but never used either of those products in our projects.

Normally for your area we would suggest the TWP 1500 Series or the Armstrong Clark.


   
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(@dorysel)
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I am planning to restain a dried out 20 year old deck that was last successfully sanded and stained with 2 coats of Cabot's Australian Timber Oil, color-Natural, 5 years ago. The deck sits lakeside in mostly full sun for half the day in the mountains of Massachusetts. During the winter, it is completely covered with several feet of snow.
I do not know if it was constructed of cedar or pressure-treated wood. If this is critical to deciding the stain, can you advise me on how I can figure this out?
I have read on your site that the Cabots product has changed, so I do not want to use it again.
What do you recommend, or what would you recommend for each type of wood? I can try to have a contractor identify the wood type for me.
Thanks.


   
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Scott Paul ~ Restoring Wood & Decks Since 1993
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Topic starter  

Wood type is not that important when dealing with softwoods. Only matters if you have an exotic hardwood, which I doubt you have. Look at TWP 1500 Series.


   
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