[Sticky] Deck Staining Help

Hi

parents have a 12 year old cedar pressure treated deck Shuswap Lake, British Columbia. It's never been stained only had a preservative (Thomson Water Seal then Sico preservative for wood) put on it every few years. It has now been sanded several times as there are problems with slivers. Now the sliver problem is very bad (I took more than a dozen out each of my kids after one day playing there.)

Mold and Mildew is not a problem at all as great sun in summer. It has partial shade for a few hours a day in summer.

We were directed towards Synta's deck restor by a local shop but it hasn't received the best review.

What would you recommend to stop the sliver problem and something that is not slippery when wet. Have tried to read most of the other posts and havn't seen anything about sliver problems -thanks

Quote from G_dwMcpeTc_70.188.249.228 on May 21, 2012, 02:17
State: NW Florida (gets very hot and can get very cold, very humid)
Full Sun on part of deck and Partial Sun on part
New Deck/Pressure Treated Pine
old deck - Wood RX solid, never adhered totally and wood weather very badly in 3 yrs

We are replacing the deck we had after only 3 years and I want to be sure to do it right. I wanted to strip the old deck but nothing worked that I tried except sanding and the wood was rather damaged so we thought we needed to tear it off and start again. I see where you recommend TimberOil for new decks but I am really wanting the quality of the TWP or Defy. I really want the mold and mildew protection, the water protection and the simplicity of just cleaning and being able to reapply when the time comes. Can you please help me decide what to use. I definitely want a color and not a clear so that in itself should help. Thank you.

We still like the TimberOil and brand new wood. You could always clean and recoat with TWP down the road. If you start off with TWP then I would only suggest one coat this year on the new wood.

We have just laid a new yellow pine front porch (covered, north facing & fairly well protected from weather) and are considering light colored stain and seal. Since this is not the common decking wood situation, is it necessary to "clean" the new wood for better penetration? We realize we are NOT good at home upkeep, and want a finish as long-lasting as possible, with next step upkeep as simple as possible. What is your very rough estimate on how long this first finish should last? Our contractor is recommending TWP. Like folks above, my concern is extra work with TimberOil.

Yes you should prep the new wood to help the stain absorb better. TWP is a great choice and it is a good sign that he is suggesting it. The first time you stain with TWP or really any stain, it will not last as long as the second time. The wood will be much more absorbent later down the road.

Hi

parents have a 12 year old cedar pressure treated deck Shuswap Lake, British Columbia. It's never been stained only had a preservative (Thomson Water Seal then Sico preservative for wood) put on it every few years. It has now been sanded several times as there are problems with slivers. Now the sliver problem is very bad (I took more than a dozen out each of my kids after one day playing there.)

Mold and Mildew is not a problem at all as great sun in summer. It has partial shade for a few hours a day in summer.

We were directed towards Synta's deck restor by a local shop but it hasn't received the best review.

What would you recommend to stop the sliver problem and something that is not slippery when wet. Have tried to read most of the other posts and havn't seen anything about sliver problems -thanks

The only way to stop slivers is to use a solid color stain the lies or films on top of the wood like a paint. We really do not care for this look and we do not rate most solid color deck stains. Synta Restore would stop this but it will peel eventually like any solid color stain.

Really trying to get to the bottom of whether or not TWP is sold into Canada?? Some sites imply it is, even have a canada search tab, but when I call I get a runaround.

I am not sure but I believe TWP is not sold into Canada. Have you contacted the manufacturer?

Northern Virginia
Full sun southern exposure
PT 2 years old
Black mold problems overall
TWP 100 cedar tone used originally
We bought our lumber in spring and let it dry while stacked for drying in our barn until mid summer. Built deck, let it sit for another month, cleaned it, sanded it and stained with TWP 100. Followed application instructions very carefully. Beautiful results, but by end of the next summer, deck was no longer water repellent. Color was still great, but started getting mold on both horizontal and some vertical surfaces. Suspect it was from snow/rainwater sitting on horizontal deck surfaces, since it is worst on boards that must have some cupping since water pools on them. We don't understand why we have it on vertical surfaces in full sun. We are now in the process of stripping/cleaning it to apply a stain again. TWP gets highest marks in reviews, but we were disappointed that its water repellent properties only lasted a year. Should we stick with it again, or try Defy Extreme or some other brand?

The need for water beading is a myth and is not important to outside wood. All high quality stains will not bead water for very long as you want the wood to be able to breathe. They instead "shed" water. If you 100% seal it in you will create dry rot.

I would stay with it.

We live on the California's central coast - very moderate weather. Redwood deck and walkway in sun and shade. Had an issue with a Sikkens product that resulted in the entire deck and walkway having to be sanded. We picked TWP 1500 for our new stain. The man applying it suggested that after the stain has dried to put another water proofing product over it. Is that a good idea?

No, do not put another product on top of the TWP. It will not work and cause problems.

1. State you live in - Maryland
2. Full Shade [90%]
3. Type of Wood[not sure deck is over 30 years old and was here when we bought the home]
4. Mold is a problem, but the deck seem to accumulate a lot of dirt. Because of the shade, we have a fair amount of dampness.
5. Main Issues with Previous Stains - I used Flood solid stain last time [about 3 years ago]. There has been an increase in "flaking", so I am going to re-stain again this year.

Here is what I have done so far [and what I am planning to do]:

1. Power wash to get a lot of the dirt and mold off.
2. I plan on using the Restore-A-Deck cleaner to get the rest of the dirt off [it appears to be ground in].
3. Re-stain with another solid stain product.

My main question is what solid stain product would give me the "best" result?

Also, should I consider a brightner? Since I am going to use a solid stain, I did not think I needed this product.

Many thanks.

Jim H.

We have yet to rank solid stains. In out experience they all peel within a few years.

Yes you should use a brightener as it neutralize and sets the pH balance of the wood. Stains will perform better if the wood is not highly caustic.

Hi - Last year we moved into a home with an older cedar deck. Looks like it's never been stained - all grey now. After power washing this spring, many of the boards have raised grain and I have sanded the "fuzz" off of some. We replaced the side rails where the lattice was shot - so new lattice and one new handrail - all cedar. Also replaced a few bad boards. We plan on using the RAD kit to clean and brighten, but not sure about the stain. We live in northern Minnesota. The deck gets morning sun and is about 3/4 shaded in the afternoon. In winter it's in sun all day until it gets buried under all the snow! We like the look of clear but understand that semi-transparent would last longer. What stain would you suggest? Oil or water? How many coats? Thanks in advance!
Dawn

Dawn, I would look at TWP or Armstrong Clark for this deck. Two coats is normal.

Thanks! Which TWP? I see that we can still use the 100 series in MN - or would the 1500 be a better choice? If we go with the 1500 water based, could we come back with an oil like AC in the future (or oil to water) or stay with the same stuff?
Dawn