[Sticky] Deck Staining Help

Use the Black Walnut in the TWP 1500 Series or the Armstrong Clark in the Oxford Brown. Black Walnut will be darker.

Can I use the Armstrong and Clark 'Amber" stain on PTP under these conditions:

1. Deck is in Michigan
2. It is surrounded by trees and in full shade much of the day
3. Pressure treated pine
4. Conditions are good mold but the deck has been sanded, cleaned and brightened.
5. All old stain has been sanded away. Only flat surfaces will be stained.

Thanks again for your help

Alex

Yes that would be a good option for you in MI.

Just before we became owners of our home in southern FL, our pressure treated decks were power washed. Now they are untreated with raised grain, and the sun is extremely strong and the rainy season has started. We know we need to do something immediately to protect the decks, but oil-based treatments do not seem to be an option since we can't count on seeing a totally dry deck until the fall. One deck is on the north side of the house and gets partial sun, the other deck is on the southern side and gets full sun. Can you advise us of a plan of attack?

If you want a water based stain than use the Defy Extreme. It is the best water based stain on the market.

Quote from administrator on June 26, 13:49
If you want a water based stain than use the Defy Extreme. It is the best water based stain on the market.

Question - does it make sense that we should use a water based stain at this point in time? I was leaning towards TWP1500 until I realized the deck will not be thoroughly dry until the fall. Did I come to the right conclusion?

You can apply the TWP after two full days of no rain. You do not have to wait until Fall.

I live in Williamsburg, VA and have a very large deck with pergola. I had it professionally stained about 3.5 years ago with Behr's 4 year deck stain product. It's holding it's own, but beginning to wear. The deck receives partial sunlight in the morning hours, full sun light in late morning to about 3 pm, and then full shade the rest of the day.

I see these "new" products being advertised by Rustoleum and Behr for a deck/concrete coating. Many of the reviews I see on some of the sites indicate 2 main issues: 1. The thickness of the product 2. The durability of the product. What information can you offer on these products? Is there a coating product out there that will last longer than 4 years? If so, what is it? Do I have to strip the existing stain from the deck to get the seal I need with the coating product?

Whatever information you can provide that will help me decide whether to use one of these coating products or stay with stain would be greatly appreciated.

Stay with stain.

1. Texas
2. Partial shade/full sun
3. Cedar fence
4. Small bits of mold

I'm looking to hire someone to stain my cedar, board on board fence. Have a few questions:

-Some of the contractors I speak to say I should power wash the fence, some say it just needs to be cleaned (ie: brushed of debris before restaining). Another contractor said just the few slightly grey/black sections need to be powerwashed. Who's correct?

-One contractor said I would need to go with a solid stain due to the amount of scratches in the fence. Other's didn't mention it. I'd prefer a semi-transparent stain, but don't want it to look poor if the scratches are plainly visible. (Pic of fence: http://imgur.com/30eWtsD )

-The recommended stain from one contractor is Behr Ultra Acrylic Stain, Satin finish. I don't see this reviewed on the site. I don't see this reviewed on the site. Wondering what a better option that I can obtain locally (Dallas, TX) would be?

Thanks!

You should use a deck stain stripper and pressure wash off the old stain. Use a wood brightener when done. Once prepped correctly you can use a penetrating semi-transparent stain. Stay away from Behr. Look for TWP locally.

Northern VA heavy afternoon sun house faces west lots of rain and now
Pressure treated
Pressure washed with cleaner wood was gray
9 years old
No mold

Quote from administrator on July 6, 23:14
You should use a deck stain stripper and pressure wash off the old stain. Use a wood brightener when done. Once prepped correctly you can use a penetrating semi-transparent stain. Stay away from Behr. Look for TWP locally.

Well, the other thing is that I've got a LOT of fence. Roughly 320 linear ft. at 8ft tall. Doing both sides comes out to over 5k sq/ft of fence! Is this still beneficial for the cost at that large of a project?

And what would you recommend for application methods for the stripper, brightener and stain for something this large? Being board on board (with a bunch of decorative top caps), I'm assuming I'd need to use some sort of sprayer.

I live in Michigan. I am getting a new exterior wood tongue-in-groove wood (fir) floor on an outdoor covered porch that is exposed to the elements on two sides. The old one rotted from water damage. I don't know whether a solid color stain or paint would protect it more from future water damage and if so, which brands would be better. I also wondered if I should use a primer. It is a very heavy traffic area. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Could you please help? I have a home with a deck 10X28 with pressure treated lumber.I live in Upstate New York. The temperatures range-35F in the winter with 90 inches of snow and ice to 85F in the summer. The deck is about nine years old. I let it cure and power washed it with deck cleaner. I used Cabot latex stain at that time, the so called experts said that was the best stain.Now every year we must sand the floor of the deck and other spots where it has blistered or come off. I can understand normal maintenance but stripping and sanding the deck floor every year is getting old.What is the best solution, Please Help?I hope whatever solution you suggest I can color tint it to the existing color. Frozen in the North Country!