[Sticky] Deck Staining Help

The contractor who just refinished our ipe porch and balconies screwed up. He was the one who originally painted them when the house was newly built, so we trusted he would use the right product. We came home to find that they had been stained with Deckscapes SW water based solid stain. Needless to say that the beautiful grain is gone and it is now covered in matte mahogany color. It is going to be a mess to have the stripped them now. What to do? If we keep this for a year or so and then strip them and coat them with an appropriate stain, is it going to cause any harm to the wood? Any suggestions are appreciated.

Pleas see the replies that we posted in the comment areas.

Quote from administrator on December 29, 2011, 11:58
When asking questions on Deck Staining please include:

<ul>1. I live in Pennsylvania
<ul>2. Deck is in sun, partial shade, surrounded by woods
<ul>3. Type of wood is Meranti AKA Philippine Mahogany
<ul>4. Mold dirt mildew etc
<ul>5. Main Issue is that I do not want to use stripper due to toxic consequences. I have used oxygen bleach based wood cleaner and scrubbed. Old stain is Cabot ATO but is 4 years old so most of the stain has been removed with wood cleaner and careful pressure washing. Will now sand areas that look like old stain not sufficiently cleaned off.

My Question: does it make any difference whether I use an oil based stain (e.g. Armstrong-Clark Hardwood Stain) or a water-based stain (e.g. Defy Hardwood Stain) to protect my deck in light of the prior Cabot oil based stain (and non-use of stain stripper)? Is oil based likely to penetrate best at this time or is water based equally effective?

You should not apply another brand on top of an old stain without stripping. Does not matter if it is oil or water based. Neither will work well as the old coating will not allow proper penetration. Improper prep is the number one reason coatings prematurely fail.

I live in Northern VA and I have a deck with full sun that was built about 2 months ago from pressure treated pine. I haven't done anything with it. I am wondering if I should stain it now with Armstrong Clark or wait until spring and stain it with Defy Extreme. I am looking for a stain that has good UV protection but I am not that handy and it sounds like the Defy can be a pain to put on. What is your suggestion?

Wait until Spring and use the AC or TWP 1500 for ease of application.

Utah Southwest (St. George)
Partial Shade
Redwood
No mold or mildew
applied Thompson's sealer when new 12 years ago, nothing since.

I'd like to clean and then treat with stain or sealer

What do you recommend for cleaning and stain / sealer?

David

Try the Restore A Deck Kits for the prep. Stain with the TWP 100 Series.

Central Virginia, Lynchburg
I had a new Yellawood pine deck installed end of August,2013. Is it too new to stain. Full sun to partial shade in afternoon with not much of an issue for mold. I would like something semi-transaprent. What would you recommend as the best? Also, what would you recommend to clean with first? I would really like to be able to stick with one product. If having to use 2 different products,1 for new wood and another afterwards, is a major project switching between the 2 as far as prep and cleaning is concerned?
Thanks, this site is great!

See answer in comment area.

Florida
9 yr old PT pine
little shade in pm
No mold issues

Stain issue:
In 2011 I stripped my 1000% acrylic deck, sanded, washed & brightened it. I applied One Time Wood Stain. A few weeks after it cured I noticed what appeared to be inconsistent stain penetration. In Jan 2013 I stripped, sanded , washed and brightened my floating dock, and used a different stain. Several days later, the same problem: inconsistent penetration/saturation. It seems I'm doing everything I should but my final results aren't very good.

Are you mainly concerned about the "white" areas where to stain does not seem to absorb or color the wood?

It could be one of two things:

1. Stain absorb deeply there and needs more to touch up and color
2. Something is stopping the stain to absorb. This could be a previous old coatings, sanded too smooth preventing penetration, etc.

Quote from administrator on December 29, 2011, 11:58
When asking questions on Deck Staining please include:

<ul>1. State you live in</ul>
<ul>2. Full Shade, Partial Shade, or Full Sun</ul>
<ul>3. Type of Wood</ul>
<ul>4. Mold or Mildew Issues</ul>
<ul>5. Main Issues with Previous Stains</ul>

Dear Sirs
I live in Georgia.
Full Shade
Pine
No mold or mildew
No previous issues

My home and deck are brand new. (3 months old) I would like to seal my deck to protect it from weather, mold, mildew etc... No staining is necessary. When should i do this and what is the best product?
thank you

No stain means no UV protection from graying. If you are okay with it graying then look at TWP 100 Clear. If you want to prolong the graying then look at TWP in one of the semi-transparent colors.

NC Mountains
Decking and rails are treated pine, approx. 7 years old
1/3 of the decking is uncovered, balance is under a porch
Some mildew on the uncovered decking with harsh exposure to snow, etc.
Have only used waterproofing (Olympic I think) in the past on deck and rails
Also have dogs that run on the deck

What do you suggest for cleaning and for staining? Looking for durability and protection.

Thanks.