to my deck before power washing it thoroughly off yet it looks patchy? Should I reapply another coat and repeat the process?
Most likley yes. Post some pics.
RAD Paint Strip Tips
Before general use, test on a small area to determine compatibility, required dwell time, and coverage for desired results. For an estimated 5 or less coats, scrape a section of the area with a stripping tool after one hour of dwell time. If not easily down to wood after one hour, leave on longer and test again hourly. For 10 – 15 coats of paint, cover with plastic and wait 24 hours to test. For best results, cover the stripper with plastic and do not allow to dry.
Shake well before use. Protect all areas not being stripped with plastic sheeting. Rubber gloves and safety glasses are recommended for eye and skin protection.
Pour into a container and apply with a brush, roller (best applied with a 1 1/4” nap roller), or airless sprayer. Apply liberally - the stripper should cover the color of the stain. For best results and extended dwell times, cover stripper with plastic. Do not let stripper dry out, mist with water if you notice any dry areas. Refer to test area on dwell time before stripping. Test stripping a small area to ensure you are down to the substrate. If not, leave R-A-D™ PaintStrip on and let it do its job. R-A-D™ PaintStrip may or may not bubble. This will depend on the type of paint or sealer being removed. One gallon covers approximately 50-100 sq. ft. Best results are achieved when R-A-D PaintStrip is applied at temperatures between 60F and 80F.
For best results, agitate with a stiff bristle brush and then remove by either scraping or pressure washing. Always pressure wash at an angle so that the water jet acts as a chisel.
Let surface dry completely before refinishing. Clean all tools with soap and water.
Dispose of paint or sealer waste in accordance with local, State, and Federal regulations.
Looks like you will need to redo as it should be bare. Did you do the test spot first? This helps determine how thick to apply and how long to dwell before trying to remove it with a pressure wash. You may need to break it down into sections at a time.
Just wanted to double check this before I move onto the brightening and staining stage…
This Douglas fir has been hit twice with the stain and paint remover, its definitely made a difference in removing some of the varnish but its seems patchy in areas…. Do I need to hit it with another round of remover? The varnish im using is dark walnut.
Yes, you need to remove all old coatings that is still on there. When you say "varnish" are you using RAD Dark Walnut? It is not a varnish, but a penetrating stain.
I'm re-staining my deck and want to confirm recommended cleaning/prep and # of coats (solid stain). See below for details.
New Wood or Older Wood? - Older (about 20 years), partial shade (southeast PA), and a portion is covered by roof.
Does the Deck have a Current Coating? - Solid stain, applied 10 years ago
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? - Switching to DEFY Extreme, similar color to existing
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know. - One of the big box store brands
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain? - solid water-based
I'm staining my pool deck for first time. The deck has weathered for about 3 years and I want to confirm recommended cleaning/prep and # of coats (solid stain). See below for details.
New Wood or Older Wood? - Older (about 3 years), partial shade (southeast PA).
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? - Using DEFY Extreme solid stain
I'm re-staining my deck and want to confirm recommended cleaning/prep and # of coats (solid stain). See below for details.
New Wood or Older Wood? - Older (about 20 years), partial shade (southeast PA), and a portion is covered by roof.
Does the Deck have a Current Coating? - Solid stain, applied 10 years ago
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? - Switching to DEFY Extreme, similar color to existing
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know. - One of the big box store brands
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain? - solid water-based
I'm staining my pool deck for first time. The deck has weathered for about 3 years and I want to confirm recommended cleaning/prep and # of coats (solid stain). See below for details.
New Wood or Older Wood? - Older (about 3 years), partial shade (southeast PA).
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? - Using DEFY Extreme solid stain
Mold or Mildew Issues? - see photo
Clean and brighten this oxidized wood for prep. 2 Coats of the solid stain.
I am confused about whether I need to, or can, stain my deck, which was rebuilt 4 years ago with a type of lumber product called Elite Decking. Are you familiar with this? It is Douglas fir, definitely pressure treated but the product descriptions seem to indicate that it's something different from whatever regular pressure-treating is, and is also pre-stained, or dyed, with color that is now wearing off unevenly. The contractor who built the deck said it should be stained after weathering for at least a year, but I just spoke to the lumber yard that sold the product and they said, first, that this product isn't actually recommended for decks because it checks and warps, and second that because it is treated so heavily, it won't accept stain and the only treatment that is compatible with it is a clear sealant (they recommended Wolman Raincoat.) The wood has been weathering for several years, as I said, and water readily soaks in. Are you familiar with this product, and are your recommendations for it different from regular pressure-treated wood? I was planning to go with a penetrating semi-transparent, but now I'm unclear on whether that's a suitable choice. I don't mind about the color being uneven but I do want to protect the wood in whatever way is appropriate. On the previous deck, I got into that cycle of accumulating film-forming pigmented stains and I really don't want to start down that road again inadvertently.
I live in western Washington. The deck is shaded most of the time, but gets direct sun about half the day in spring and summer. It has some mold and mildew in places and is quite slippery when wet. There has been some warping and checking, but it's minor.
Thanks for your help!
This post was modified 2 years ago 2 times by galadhremmin
